The right equipment can make a good beach dive epic but one wrong piece can doom the same dive. Knowing what works best is more than important, it is essential.

Once you are ready to begin beach diving, you must consider the equipment you will use.  Most standard scuba kits are perfectly adequate for shore-entry dives, but it makes sense to consider some of the special conditions of those dives to ensure your gear will be up to the task.  When you dive from a boat and experience a gear failure, it is often just a matter of climbing back aboard to repair the problem or abort the dive.  When you swim 1,000 yards offshore and your equipment malfunctions, you have a long, perilous journey back to safety.

Beach diving scuba equipment should always be of good quality, preferably of reputable manufacture with a local means of maintenance and repair.  As mentioned earlier, many of us who scuba from shore do so because it is economical.  We often find ways of saving money by handcrafting shore support aids or even carpooling to dive sites, but one thing savvy divers do not go cheap on is equipment.  When you consider that the gear you use for your underwater adventure literally becomes your life-support system, that priority makes all the sense in the world.

From the device that provides flotation (BCD) to the air supply (regulator and tank) to protection from adverse elements (wetsuit, etc.), your gear should be functional, reliable, and appropriate.  Functional gear performs the duties you require during a dive, such as provide buoyancy control or supply adequate breathing gas under all conditions.  Reliable gear means you leave shore with no reasonable doubt that it will work when you need it to.  Appropriate gear fits properly and has a necessary purpose during the dive – anything that is too loose, too tight, or superfluous has no place in your dive plan.

If you think that quality, dependable scuba gear is beyond your budget, think again.  Price is not always a reliable indicator of quality nor is a prestigious brand the best choice for your needs.  When you apply the values of functionality, reliability, and appropriateness when shopping, you often find that the gear you need is often not the most expensive.  On the other hand, if you begin at the bargain bin first before you apply those values, you may wind up with gear that is much more trouble than it is worth.  A sound investment in the shop will pay dividends over the course of many dives but cheap, shoddy gear will need to be repaired or replaced more often than it is worth.  That is a price beach divers cannot afford.

BUOYANCY CONTROL DEVICES

One of the inventions that made scuba enjoyable, if not even possible, for many divers is the buoyancy control device, or BCD.  Take a look at some of the films of divers in the first few decades of scuba.  You will see divers strap on a tank and harness, belt on some weights, grab a primitive mask and fins, and swim like crazy for an exhilarating 20-minute dive.  That was all we had in those days, so we did the best we could and had a great time.  Eventually, someone came up with the idea of an inflatable belt that provided some buoyancy and eased our swimming effort.  We used less air, enjoyed longer dives, and had a lot more fun.  That balloon belt evolved into a full buoyancy vest and finally into a modern BCD.

Many different BCD’s are on the market with various designs and features but there are basically just two types: jacket style and rear-inflate models.  Either type of BCD is suitable for beach diving.  Most divers find the prefer one over the other as they gain experience, so the choice is up to you.  Whichever style you choose, you want to make sure it has the features you will need or at least find helpful during your beach dives.

A BCD first must provide buoyancy sufficient to give you control underwater and flotation on the surface.  Many travel-style BCD’s are made small enough and light enough to pack along in carry-on luggage.  They allow just enough buoyancy for one with minimal gear diving from a boat in ideal situations and usually in tropical settings.  Travel BCD’s may not provide enough lift for a diver traveling hundreds of yards from shore carrying gear necessary for self-sufficiency back and forth through sometimes heavy surf.

Look for a BCD rated with from 24-34 lbs of lift at least.  Some BCD’s can provide 44 lbs or more of lift, which might be too much.  Such BCD’s are intended for divers with multiple tanks and other additional weight; they tend to be bulky and present unnecessary drag for a diver covering much distance below or on the surface.  34-36 lbs of lift should be more than enough for a single tank configuration on a recreational shore dive.

Weight integration on BCD’s is much a personal choice.  Many divers learn the sport using BCD’s with removable weight pouches.  These pouches are quite handy if one must ever ditch weights in an emergency but their ease of detachment may also be a drawback for a shore diver.  Unless the weight pouch is supremely secure in the BCD, there is a chance it may fall out during a surf entry or at any other time during the dive.  Once that occurs, your dive is essentially over unless your buddy can recover the pouch for you.  If you choose a BCD with integrated weight capability, ensure the retention system is as reliable as possible.

Other BCD features to consider include D-rings, storage pockets, a second tank band, and crotch straps.  If you need to carry items such as reels, lights, submersible marker buoys, or cameras, you will want to secure them to a D-ring.  Four D-rings is usually standard on most BCD’s but many styles will allow you to add more as needed.  Storage pockets may be helpful or may provide undesirable drag.  They are good for securing seldom used items but often it is difficult to retrieve such items easily underwater.  (By the way, they are never a good place to carry shells or other items gathered during a dive; such things often pose a puncture risk to the BCD bladder.)  A second tank band is an excellent feature for a beach diver who wishes to avoid a tank coming loose in a surf entry or exit.  Likewise, crotch straps provide additional security for the BCD.

BCD’s are such a matter of personal preference that it is easy to choose one that looks right in the shop but is not so pleasing or easy to use on a dive.  If possible, try to rent a similar BCD before purchasing.  Maybe another diver has one you can borrow for a trial dive.  If not possible, don’t worry.  Most shops will allow you to return a recently-purchased BCD if you intend to exchange it for another model from the same shop.  If not, well, a backup BCD is not such a bad thing.

SCUBA CYLINDERS

Cylinders constitute part of the “A” in SCUBA (Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus), so our beach dive is not going to happen without one.  Choosing a cylinder for a beach dive is somewhat different from one for a boat dive for a few reasons.  First, the diver must make a surf entry carrying that cylinder, making an oversized, high-capacity tank too burdensome.  On the other hand, the diver will need enough air for the duration of the dive plus a reserve in case of difficulty exiting the water.  Also, part of the weight consideration may include the differences between aluminum and steel cylinders, namely the inherent buoyancy difference that translates into less weight the diver must carry.

There is a lot to be said for rationale that the tank you have is the tank you use.  If you already have a scuba cylinder you use for other types of dives, it will certainly work for beach diving, provided it is in good shape and you can carry it through the surf.  If you are in the market for a tank, you might want to consider a few factors, such as tank size and type of metal.

Cylinder size considerations are pretty straight forward: You need enough air for the dive.  If you are an average diver with some experience, an 80 cu ft (12 liter) should be suitable for a basic beach dive.  Aluminum 80’s are ubiquitous in diving and most divers either have one or have used one.  If you are a heavy breather and know you want to carry more air, a 100 cu ft or even a 120 cu ft tank will work.  A larger capacity tank will be heavier to lug through the surf but its weight is less of a factor underwater.  (Most beach divers do not carry pony bottles or additional cylinders for the obvious reasons of negotiating surf and undesirable weight on beach hikes.)

When considering tank material, one faces an interesting choice.  Aluminum tanks are inherently buoyant.  Depending on the salinity of sea water, one may actually float a fully-charged 80 cu ft cylinder that weights 37 lbs on land.  When bled down to 500 psi, the tank becomes a veritable float.  To offset that buoyancy, one carries from four to six pounds of weight either on the belt or in weight pouches.  A larger capacity aluminum tank requires more compensating weight because it is even more buoyant when empty.

Steel tanks are different.  Because steel is stronger than aluminum, less steel is required and the tanks can be charged to a higher pressure.  Consequently, steel tanks may be smaller than the same capacity aluminum tank.  The smaller, denser size also translates into less buoyancy, meaning no additional weight must be carried by the diver.  Less weight means an easier walk through the surf and less drag/less effort/better air consumption underwater.

Some divers prefer aluminum tanks because they are often less expensive and because some believe them to be less prone to corrosion than steel.  The cost issue comes down to a matter of value over time.  Given a typical 25-year functional life of a scuba cylinder, the difference in price equals less than $4 per year.  That perspective is most helpful when you realize how much easier each dive will be carrying less weight.  The corrosion issue is hardly a factor because a steel tank properly maintained and regularly inspected is no more subject to corrosion than aluminum.

Special note on tank boots: Many divers have rubber boots on their air cylinders.  While boots are helpful in some cases for tanks (prevents dents on bottom edges and may stabilize in transport and gear assembly), they can do more harm than good by trapping salt and sand next to the cylinder.  Boot corrosion is common on both types of cylinders and sometimes leads to a completely avoidable, premature condemnation of the cylinder by an inspector.  If you use a boot, remove it and rinse thoroughly after every use, drying both cylinder and boot before reinstallation. 

A better choice is to avoid using a boot at all.  The manufacturing process creates a flat bottom on aluminum tanks, allowing them to stand easily during gear assembly.  A boot is not necessary for that purpose.  Steel tanks are not similarly blessed because they are manufactured with convex (curved) bottoms and cannot free stand.  Boots are helpful to manage a steel tank during pre-dive assembly but they are not essential.  If you can avoid the risk of corrosion caused by boots, your tank may enjoy a much longer life.

REGULATORS

The regulator assembly represents the single highest investment most divers make in their diving equipment.  The reason for this should be obvious because the regulator delivers the life-giving gas that sustains us underwater.  Modern scuba did not exist until the perfection of a practical, reliable demand regulator.  A well-designed, properly-functioning regulator can make the difference between a safe and enjoyable dive or one fraught with difficulty, leading to an aborted dive, personal injury, or worse.  Regulators are your most important piece of dive equipment.

Most divers freely recommend or condemn regulator makes and models based upon personal preference and experience.  What makes such advice unreliable is the fact that one never knows all the circumstances surrounding that diver’s experience.  It might have been an idyllic blue lagoon dive with every possible condition perfect and accommodating or it might have been an environmental disaster with strong currents, heavy silting, and even icing conditions.  So many factors might contribute to the anecdotal situation that caused that diver to love or hate a particular regulator.  Always receive such opinions with a grain of salt.

The truth is almost any modern regulator of reputable manufacture will serve well for beach diving.  Most shore dives will not exceed 60 feet in depth, so a well-made, mid-range first and second stage are sufficient.  In areas where your dive might be in colder waters and icing is possible, a sealed first stage may work best.  In terms of design, piston or diaphragm makes no difference, although some believe that a diaphragm may be less subject to effects of silting.

Some divers prefer a DIN connection for the first stage because it offers integrity greater than a yoke connection.  DIN is great and, if you have it, use it and enjoy it but keep these thoughts in mind (if you haven’t already discovered them.)  In the United States and in many other parts of the western hemisphere, yoke connections are more common than DIN by a factor of 10:1.  If you are the only one in your crew with DIN, you have fewer options at swapping tanks or regulators if the need arises.  A solution to that problem is to carry a yoke adapter for your regulator and DIN inserts for your tanks.

Another consideration for DIN connections is the fact of so many internal threads in the valve face.  Shore conditions often include either sand, dirt, or silt.  Should any of those become lodged in valve threads, for instance if a tank should topple before the regulator is installed, it poses a hazard to the first stage air inlet or in binding the connector once installed.  Of course, one can be prepared to clean out debris before installation but unless you need the intrinsic security of DIN, a yoke is often easier, cleaner, and more easily adapted.

Two more features are important when choosing a regulator and they both concern the second stage.  Sufficient air delivery is of great concern to a beach diver, who sometimes swims against current or surge when entering or exiting the water.  Greater effort demands more air delivered immediately.  Such divers seek a second stage that breathes easily, which is often a function of second-stage design and of the low pressure supply hose connecting it to the first stage.  Some makes and models breathe easier than others.  Sometimes the only way you can determine if a model suits you is to try it.  Most shops will connect regulators to air cylinders to demonstrate different models for customers.  Try at least a half dozen styles and models.  It is not difficult to feel the difference and know which one you prefer.  (Hint: often the one you like might not be the most expensive model in the shop!)

The other helpful second stage feature is ease of cleaning.  Some second stages have a cover that is easily removed by the diver without the use of tools.  By gaining access to the inner face and the diaphragm within, you can see and clear sand or silt.  Removing the face plate in such regulators does not require any adjustments to the valve or tuning of the regulator – it is an easy function for most divers to perform.  This method is far superior to soaking or flushing the regulator while only hoping you get all the sand out.  Sand, silt, or other such debris can clog the valve, causing it to free flow uncontrollably.  It might also present itself during inhalation, with obvious complications for the diver.  The ability to clear one’s own second stage will save many a dive and not a little money in shop fees.

Note on regulator manufacturers:  When you consider the term “reputable manufacture” as the source for your regulator, keep in mind there are some leading companies that have been designing and building fine regulators for years and there are other companies that are newer, less well known, but supply just as good and sometimes better regulators.  Two ways to determine reputable and reliable include local shop support and pricing differences.  If a local shop carries and recommends a regulator, it is because they trust it to keep you safe and returning often as a faithful customer.  It is just as likely that they are authorized and equipped to service that regulator.  Prices will vary among makes and models but beware of any regulator that retails for 50% or less than its competitors.  Some very inexpensive regulators are now available direct from manufacturers through global shopping services but they are not durable, reliable, nor suitable for extended scuba use.  You may get one or two dives out of them, if you are lucky, then you must replace them because they cannot be repaired.  True value is money well invested in good quality.  Remember, it is your life support system!

COMPUTERS, COMPASSES, AND CONSOLES

Possibly one of the best developments in recreation scuba this century is the dive computer.  While it is true that dive computers have been available for many years, only in the last twenty years have they become reasonably affordable to the average diver.  Without a dive computer, a diver must estimate intended depth and time, consult appropriate dive tables, monitor both depth and time carefully throughout the dive, and perform calculations following the dive to determine safe surface intervals and limitations for subsequent dives.  A dive computer does all that analysis constantly, more accurately, and with greater benefits for safety and extended dive time.

Some divers believe that a dive computer, or even calculating no decompression limits, is not necessary for shore diving because the average depth tends to me so shallow.  That assumption is inaccurate, ill-informed, and contrary to recommendations from the diving medical community.  The simplest explanation involves the extended nature of the average shore dive.  When divers take the trouble to enter the water and swim to a reef or wreck, they intend to make the most of their time in the water.  At 25 feet, many experienced divers can easily stay for 75-90 minutes on an 80 cu ft tank.  According to one dive table, that assumes a residual nitrogen saturation that reduces allowable no decompression time by 20% if the diver attempts to return to the same depth immediately.  The reduction is even more profound if a dive to a deeper depth is considered.  Regardless of one’s preference for table or computer, proper dive planning and management is prescribed for beach dives.

The many different makes and models fall into two basic mounting configurations: wrist and console.  Many beach divers find a wrist mounted computer easier to use for quick reference and because it does not add to the size and awkwardness of a console.  (Another drawback of console mounted computers is exposure to sand accumulation and to incidental trauma.  It seems consoles are often banging around, even when clipped to a D-ring.)  Of course, contemporary dive computers have a variety of features, including large screens, air integration, remote transmitter, and a choice of one or more buttons.  Any standard dive computer is suitable for beach diving provided it permits you to manage your no decompression time on either air or Nitrox.  In most cases, the simplest computer that performs those functions is the best choice for the following reasons: it has fewer options to fail, it may be more durable than complex models, and it will probably be much less expensive.

The dive compass is likely the least appreciated and least understood item in the diver’s locker, that is, assuming the diver even has a compass.  Many divers quickly forget the perfunctory instruction they receive on compass navigation during open water certification training.  Most divers never intentionally purchase a compass much less learn how to use it effectively.  Such divers have a rude awakening should they attempt to shore dive, when they are solely responsible for navigating from an entry point to a dive site and back again entirely underwater.

If you think that, because a shore dive is relatively shallow, you can surface repeatedly to determine your position relative to shore, you are sadly mistaken.  Not only does constantly ascending and descending create greater risks of over-expansion injury and equalization issues, it is a horribly inefficient practice for navigation.  After fixing your position on the surface, once you descend you have no point of reference other than an uneducated guess.  Without a compass, you may become disoriented again and must surface once more, at best; at worst, you might swim into a hazard or exceed your limit of air or energy.  Another danger of attempting periodic surface navigation is the likelihood of boat traffic and its attendant dangers.  Be willing to increase your margins of safety by investing in a decent dive compass.

A good dive compass is waterproof, has a large face with easily read numbers, a distinct lubber line on the dial, and a movable bezel.  It is helpful to have a wide side window that allows easy access to compass headings.  The compass dial should be larger than 1-1/4 inches and preferably 1-1/2 to 2” across because smaller models are more difficult to read and more prone to deflection.  The compass should be securable by wrist strap, D-ring clip, or console mount.

Electronic compasses are a recent development that has yet to prove reliable.  At first glance, their digital display seems quite modern and technologically advanced.  When divers attempt to use those compasses however, they quickly discover significant drawbacks.  First, digital compasses must be calibrated and recalibrated constantly.  Most models require the user to locate north to begin calibration, so to do that you need – you guessed it – a standard compass.  A compass that cannot tell direction is worse than useless – it poses a threat to any diver who follows its error off one’s intended path.  Standard compasses use the earth’s magnetic field as reference and are only subject to reasonable and preventable deflection.  Digital compasses have no fixed reference and thus require frequent realignment.

Not all compasses are waterproof or suitable for underwater navigation.  Just because the compass itself is in a sealed compartment does not mean that compartment can resist pressure at depth.  Nor are fittings necessarily stainless steel or durable plastic.  Seek dive quality compasses intended for submersion and exposure to sea water.  A good quality underwater compass will cost about the same as a decent scuba mask.  Anything cheaper may not be worth carrying.

Most divers are familiar with consoles because they are a common feature on student regulators in open water certification courses.  When divers begin acquiring their own gear, they find consoles are standard on most equipment packages offered by dive shops.  Consoles are useful for containing a few essential instruments in one place.  Most of the time, they can be safely secured to a BCD D-ring for quick access by the diver.  Many beach divers use consoles without problem or complaint.

The essential design of the console presents the only concern veteran beach divers eventually develop.  Basically an instrument holster, the very pockets that hold those instruments allow for the flow of water in and through it.  Sand and silt naturally follow that water, often accumulating in crevices and hidden seams.  Even thorough rinsing cannot remove all that fine debris, which is soon joined by salt crystals as seawater evaporates.  Those abrasive and corrosive elements take their toll on the instruments over the course of time.  When it comes time to replace the instruments, be they computer, depth gauge, compass, or SPG, many beach divers choose to simplify their rig.  They switch to wrist mounted computer and compass with only a bare SPG attached on the high-pressure line clipped to a D-ring.

MASKS

Every diver’s most personal item is the mask.  Nothing else fits as close or provides as intimate protection as that piece of rubber-skirted glass that covers one’s eyes and nose.  Without the mask, there would be no reason to dive unless you just like the sound of bubbles.  The air space created by one’s mask constitutes the comfort zone that gives new divers their sense of safety underwater and it provides that service for the duration of diver’s career.

Perhaps because a mask is so simple and reliable, most divers take its quality and features for granted.  In fact, many divers never think much about their mask unless it does not perform adequately.  Few things can ruin a dive quicker or more completely than a leaky or foggy or uncomfortable mask.  With that in mind, consider a few important facts about masks before evaluating its place in shore diving.

For more than a century of skin diving, few things have changed as much or remained the same as mask design.  Once, divers were content with a disk of window glass clamped to a six-inch length of fire hose, which was then shaped to the user’s face and tied in place with twine.  Now, one may choose custom glass that may be tinted, high definition, and prescription ground.  You may have full-pane, double lens, side panels, and even curved, bubble lenses molded into any one of a dozen grades of supple silicone and secured with single, double, no snag, or customized straps.  Still, the mask remains simply an air pocket that allows one’s eyes to focus and one’s nose to equalize the pressure within.

So, where do divers go wrong with a mask purchase?  Generally, mistakes are made either at one extreme or the other; divers either pay too little or too much for their mask.  A colorful snorkeling kit at the local discount store may look like a bargain but the plastic lens will soon become too scratched to see through and the PVC skirt will leak copiously if you descend below 10 feet.  On the other hand, a $300 showpiece with coated lenses and a prestigious logo may not serve your purpose, no matter how good the salesman said it looked on you.  Remember the adage from BCD selection: seek fit and function first.

A good, serviceable mask should not cost an arm and a leg, but it must be able to fit comfortably, maintain its seal no matter what depth, and provide a clear view at all times.  Use the age-old method of placing the mask on your face without affixing the strap, inhale to create a seal, and shake your head to see if the mask remains in place without you holding it.  Make sure your nose fits comfortably in the pocket and ensure the lens is not so close that it touches the bridge of your nose or your eyebrows.  After that test, if the style and the price tag suit you, make the purchase and look forward to your next dive for a test.  (Helpful hint: if you are upgrading from an older mask that still works for you, take that mask along as a spare for the first dive…just in case.)  If for any reason your new mask does not work for you, most shops will exchange it for another until you find the one you like.

Two additional considerations for a beach diving mask that one does not normally encounter during boat dives are surf action and exposure to sand.  Entering and exiting the water, a diver usually negotiates waves and undertow that challenge one’s balance.  This is especially true at night.  For that reason, beach divers are especially conscious of retaining their mask.  The best strategy is to wear the mask in place to protect one’s eyes and nose should one stumble and fall in the surf.  That also makes use of the regulator or snorkel more effective.  Beach divers prefer a strap that ensures good retention or may provide a means for attaching a tether (more on that later).

The surf also presents a lot of sand in the water column, so your mask may emerge after a dive with particles on both the inside and outside surfaces.  While sand is easily rinsed off afterward, masks with coated glass tend to exhibit scratches from the experience.  After many dives, these scratches multiply until they begin to obscure vision or cause the coating to bubble and peel from the glass.  At the very least, it is unsightly.  Avoid coated lenses for beach diving, you will not only avoid inevitable scratches, but you will likely save a lot of money on a less expensive option.

FINS

Almost as many options exist for fins as they do for masks.  Fins are the primary means of propulsion for the diver because use of hands and arms is both inefficient and ineffective underwater.  Thus, veteran divers pay particular attention to that gear which converts effort into motion.  (At this point, someone always raises the option of diver propulsion vehicles (DPV), which is discussed later, but even DPV users wear fins).  It is true that one can immerse in scuba gear without fins but where is the sense in that?  If you are going to go anywhere and see anything, you will need a good pair of fins.

You should already know that snorkel fins won’t do the job, right?  The mask, snorkel, and fins you bought in the mesh bag at the tourist shop near the beach may be good for collecting shells near the shoreline, but those fins have nowhere near the stamina you need to propel your body plus 50 lbs of gear through the water.  Scuba fins are designed for such propulsion.  Whether full foot or open heel, solid blade or split fin, scuba fins are designed to accommodate the locomotive needs of divers in whatever type kick employed.

Beach divers develop preferences for fin styles, which opinions they develop through experience with surf conditions, shore currents, and a few other factors.  Unless one dons fins on the sand and duck walks or walks backward into the surf (neither works well!), you will carry your fins until you are waist deep.  Open heeled fins have straps that make them easier to hold or clip to the BCD prior to donning.  That is a much more secure technique than embracing a pair of full foot fins the sea seems determine to strip from your grasp.  Open heeled fins also accommodate dive boots, which most beach divers prefer when walking over hot sand or rocky shorelines.

Blade stiffness is a feature in much demand by those who need to power themselves through waves and shore currents.  Some scuba fins are designed for leisurely strolls among the coral.  Such fins have soft blades that offer little resistance to one’s leg, thus reducing impact on underdeveloped thigh and calf muscles.  Split fins and models that make creative use of springs, straps, pistons, and other contraptions that proport to enhance kick effort with minimal diver effort fall into that category, but they are seldom sufficient for beach diving.  Many try them only to find they lack the power required to get through incoming rollers and current.

Almost all major scuba manufacturers offer an open-heeled, solid blade fin that is stiff enough for beach diving, so you are sure to find a model and style that suits you.  Whenever you shop for fins, be sure to wear dive boots when trying them on.  Have someone apply mild pressure to the blade as you extend your leg.  The fins should not bend more than 30 degrees in either forward or backward direction and you should feel most of the pressure applied in your calf.  That test will also ensure a proper fit, if the fin does not wobble with your foot securely inside.

Spring straps are an excellent option for beach divers because you can don or doff the fins quickly without needing to fasten or adjust clips.  They are well worth the additional cost, a value you will concur after only a few dives.  You will find they also work very well for boat dives when you must exit the water on a finless ladder.  Spring straps are available as after-market additions to most model fins at a nominal cost.

Black is a standard color for a scuba fins, but one might argue in favor of a lighter, more noticeable color for beach diving.  It is quite possible for a diver to drop a fin, or lose hold of it in the surf.  If that happens, one finds it very difficult to locate that fin in the roiling water.  A lighter color might make that task easier.  It would also be easier if the fin floated rather than sank but buoyant fins are less common and require a bit more weight to maintain trim.  Of course, it is always best to maintain control of your fins at all times, clipping or tethering them when not wearing them.  (Note: should you lose a fin, purchase a replacement pair exactly like the lost fin.  That way, you always have a spare should that happen again.)

EXPOSURE PROTECTION

Hardly anyone enjoys wearing a wetsuit.  Rarely is a wetsuit as comfortable as not wearing a wetsuit and that goes doubly so for a dry suit.  Both options can be cumbersome, restrictive, and prone to overheating when not submerged.  Few divers would not prefer to descent into a tropical lagoon with nothing between skin and the elements than board shorts and a tee shirt.  Unfortunately, our dive conditions are not always so sublime.

Thus, you may choose between wetsuits, dry suits, and skins to protect against exposure to cold water and skin irritants.  Each type has its place according to expected conditions.  For temperatures greater than 80 degrees, a Lycra skin, a shorty wetsuit, or a sheer neoprene suit will provide comfort and protection against mild irritants like jellyfish, sea lice, and fire coral.  Between 60 and 80 degrees, you might wish the comfort of a wetsuit between 2 and 5 mm thick.  Extended exposure to temperatures below 60 degrees may require thicker protection, such as 7mm neoprene in a wetsuit, which can be very restrictive and uncomfortable.  For lower temperatures, divers often prefer a dry suit with its combined insulation of thermal undergarments.  Drysuits provide superior protection but require specialized training to manage buoyancy characteristics.

The most common choice among divers is the 3mm one-piece, full wetsuit, which is available in every size imaginable.  Suits right off the rack will suit the average person or one may order a custom size or fit from many manufacturers.  Truly hard-to-fit divers may have a suit tailor-made to their specifications for additional costs, of course.  Modern neoprene materials are much more comfortable than early versions, which tended to bind and constrict.  Newer fabrics can stretch and move without restriction and without compromising insulating values.

When the beach diver considers what is important in a wetsuit, flexibility is high on the list.  One must be able to move freely when negotiating surf entries and, if a long surface swim is necessary, it is easier accomplished without having to move against a restrictive suit.  Suits that combine two different thicknesses for maximum insulation and comfort rate highest for this purpose.  For example, 3mm neoprene protects the divers core and extremities, while 2mm allows free movement at elbows, shoulders, and hips.

Only one other feature deserves consideration in a beach diver’s wetsuit.  Because of the athletic movement required, wetsuits often wear soonest on the shoulders and at the base of the spine.  As the shore diver moves against the surf and swims on the surface, often backwards, BCD straps chaff at the shoulder and the tank support bottom rubs against the upper seat of the wetsuit.  Some wetsuit manufacturers reinforce those areas for wetsuits intended for such heavy use.  That extra cushioning will not only allow the suit to last longer, it will increase the diver’s comfort considerably.

Boots or booties protect one’s feet not only from exposure to chilly waters but also from rough gravel, hot sand, and steaming asphalt.  Several boot manufacturers offer boots with soles similar to those on tennis shoes – a half inch of padded rubber.  A thicker sole both adds protection when walking but also increases stiffness within the fin, which makes kicking power transfer more efficient.  Standard soft soles are helpful but do not offer as much protection.  When shopping for beach diving booties, seek high-topped rather than low cut, slipper styles.  The higher tops will prevent sand and small shells from entering during surf entries, an annoyance that can become a critical distraction on a long dive.  (Economy note: if you cannot locate an affordable, thick-soled booty that fits, consider a pair of old school, high-topped sneakers.  More than a few beach divers sport their well-worn Chuck Taylors with pride when striding toward the surf.)

Hoods are another necessary evil divers grudgingly accept.  Since you lose heat most through your head than anywhere else, it makes sense to cover it when the water is chilly and a cool wind blows.  Most hoods seem to be molded and stuck in bags for sale with little thought to real comfort and protection.  That is not the hood you want for beach diving.  Look for a hood that can be trimmed around the face for a custom fit.  It should have an ample skirt that tucks well down into the wetsuit.  With increased movement of your head in surf areas, this is the first wardrobe malfunction you are likely to experience, which you will spend the first part of your dive trying to tuck it back inside.  A better choice is the hooded vest, which usually costs little more than just a hood and offers additional insulation to one’s chest and back – and it will never come untucked. 

One helpful modification for any style hood ensuring vent holes in the crown area.  Some hoods have vent holes already provided but if not, one soon looks like Beldar Conehead as air expelled from the regulator slides inside and accumulates at the top of the hood.  If your hood is fully sealed, a heated rod will burn through instantly while cauterizing the edges at the same time.  A soldering iron performs this service flawlessly.

Beach divers wear gloves for warmth or protection but not often for both at the same time.  Standard scuba gloves tend to be thick and awkward, encasing one’s hand in a thick skin of neoprene that warms and immobilizes.  Most offer very little dexterity, which can be prove detrimental to one trying to operate a camera or manipulate clips.  Thick scuba gloves of 3-5mm often add 1-2 lbs. of buoyancy that must be compensated on one’s weight belt.  Divers who want warmth and dexterity simultaneously sometimes clip the ends off the glove fingers, leaving only a link of fabric to retain the tip.  When they need to find their camera button, they slide off the tip and replace it as needed.

As warm as they can be, scuba gloves are rarely durable.  When harvesting spiny lobsters, neoprene gloves protect one’s hand nicely, but they shred quickly once they’ve handled only a few crusty crustaceans.  The same occurs with some other underwater pursuits and tasks.  With a good pair of gloves retailing nearly as much as a scuba mask, one might wish for a less costly option for something so expendable.  The solution is gardening or mechanic’s gloves.  Most hardware stores offer sturdy, leather-palmed work gloves that fit snuggly, last forever, and cost only a few dollars.  At that rate, you can shove several pair into your dive bag, where they will be ready for your next adventure.

WEIGHTS

The beach diver has only two choices when it comes to weights: molded lead and soft weighted pouches.  More options appear when one considers how weights should be carried because SO many divers now use BCDs with integrated weight pockets.  Much of your weight strategy will be determined by your personal style and past experience with weights.  It should also be influenced by a singular determination shared by all divers: take only as much weight as you absolutely need.

Hopefully, you will have gained enough dive time to know how much weight is right for you.  You have also learned, of course, that amount may vary according to changes in your gear configuration and the type of water you will enter.  The old adage of starting with ten percent of one’s body weight was a helpful rule of thumb when wetsuits were as thick as snowsuits but with modern fabrics and better designs in BCD’s, even ten percent may be too much.

The best way to determine your lead weight requirement still involves the old empty tank, eye float technique.  With your air cylinder at about 500 psi – the least amount you should have remaining at the end of a dive – and with no air at all in your BCD, you should be able to float at about eye level in water deeper than you are tall.  That level of buoyancy will allow you to dive comfortably with the additional five pounds of a full air cylinder adds without being burdened by excessive weight or unnecessary drag.  This method supposes you have on all your standard rig and any other items you may carry on your dive.  Should you add or subtract items, change your configuration in any way, or change from saltwater to fresh or vice versa, you adjust your weight accordingly.

Once you know how much weight you need, you can figure how to carry it.  If you have weight-integrated pockets in your BCD, that does not always settle the matter.  Consider if those pockets are secure enough for surf entries and exits.  Remember, if you dive from a boat and lose a pouch, you can often climb back aboard, replace the weight, and continue the dive.  If you lose a pouch on a surf entry, you must exit and hope that does not happen again if you are able to replace it and return to the surf.  A secure pouch retention system is essential if you shore dive with an integrated weight BCD.

Many beach divers prefer the security and convenience of a weight belt.  Divers have used belted weights for as long as divers have plied the depths.  A basic web belt, clasp buckle, and molded lead weights is about as simple and foolproof as system one could desire.  You can quickly ditch the belt in an emergency and not worry about spending $50 just to replace the pouch, if you can find a replacement.  (By the way, it is much easier to detach a weight belt at the surface than it is to remove weight pouches from a fully inflated BCD, so there is a further safety benefit.)

  Weight belts also allow the diver to remove the BCD underwater to make adjustments without complications of managing buoyancy issues.  You can use a weight belt with any BCD, even if it has integrated weight pouches – just leave the pouches at home for the dive.

If you choose to use your weight-integrated pouches, you likely will want to use soft leaded weight packets.  Hard weights sometimes chaff the pocket or damage the plastic form within the pouch.  Soft weights tend to be pliable and less destructive, although they do tend to retain saltwater and silt after a dive.  Make sure you rinse and drain soft weights thoroughly following every dive.  Soft weights can also be carried on a padded weight belt, if you decide to try that method instead of BCD pockets.

TETHERS AND CLIPS

“If you love it, leash it,” say experienced divers.  Neptune is sure to gain his share of your gear as you occasionally lose items to the sea but there is no reason to surrender such expensive booty needlessly.  Thus, you should clip or tether any and all gear you do not wear.  If you have never lost a knife, camera, or dive light, you are extraordinarily lucky.  Even professional divers lose stuff when distracted or when dealing with adverse conditions.  Fortunately, most such losses are preventable, and the solution is easy.

All gear should be clipped or tethered to a D-ring.  If the item does not already have a clip attached, dive shops offer a host of options in plastic or metal hooks and snaps.  You can use light twine to affix the clip to the gear.  It is important that whatever means of attachment to the gear, it should be easily severed by your knife, in case that item becomes caught and cannot be dislodged.

Some equipment you may wish to tether to your BCD, so that it remains attached even while in use.  Cameras, dive lights, slates, even masks can be attached by thin, inobtrusive lines.  Such tethers should never be so loose as to present entanglement or ensnarement hazards, so consider length carefully before attaching.  Spearguns may be tethered when not in use, but you may want to remove the tether before spearing fish of such size that it may take you for a Nantucket Sleigh Ride, such as the old whale harpooners enjoyed.

While you are certain to chose clips that are made of brass or stainless steel to ensure their longevity, you might want to remember that not all marine clips may have stainless steel springs within.  Certainly, you will rinse your clips carefully after diving but also check spring tension on your clips before each dive.  If a spring loses tension or breaks during the dive, your clip is rendered useless.

FLAGS, FLOATS, AND MARKERS

Divers in the water are at the mercy of boat traffic above and around them.  For this reason, many tow a dive flag to mark their presence and location.  The “diver down” flag is a common symbol in scuba.  A bright red rectangle with a white diagonal is well-known in American waters, as is the “Alpha” flag, a blue and white flag with a horizontal notch at one edge, in many other countries.  Both flags signal the presence of diving activity.  In many states, divers are required by law to carry such flags and remain within proscribed distances of it.  Likewise, boats are required to remain twice that proscribed distance unless at idle speeds.

Beach divers carry dive flags because there is no other way to alert boaters who may venture near.  Diver-carried flags are generally at least 12” square affixed to a fiberglass pole and supported by some type of float, usually a Styrofoam ball.  Often, those flags are towed by divers by means of a 1/4" inch braided nylon line wound onto a plastic holder.  Savvy divers replace that line and holder with an adjustable reel that can be clipped to the BCD when not carried.

When groups dive together with a flag, the group should be limited to four divers per flag.  Each diver acknowledges that “the diver with the flag is never lost.”  In other words, divers stay with the one carrying the flag because without that flag, they are in violation, if not danger when surfacing.  Most divers choose to carry the flag rather than clip it off, in case a boat races in and snags the flag.

In choosing a dive flag rig for beach diving, select for durability and buoyancy.  Many collapsible units are easier to pack in your gear back for travel but lack the ability to withstand surf action.  Likewise, rigs with small floats often cannot remain visibility among active waves and swells.  A sturdy pole on a cantaloupe-sized Styrofoam ball is the most economical and functional choice for most divers.  Larger flags are nice for visibility but may be too heavy for some floats and larger flotation devices, such as innertubes and inflatable buoys may present too much drag.

With or without a flag, no diver should be without a surface marker buoy (SMB), also known as a safety sausage.  This simple tube is the cheapest, most valuable safety a diver can carry.  In sizes ranging from 36’ to 72,” these bright red or yellow inflatables can mark a diver’s position in the water such that boaters can see them across hundreds of yards of water.  At night, one can illuminate the tube with a flashlight, creating a visual signal visible over a mile away.  In the event of a BCD failure, the SMB may serve as a redundant buoyancy system, providing either neutral buoyancy to complete a dive or surface flotation to ensure safety.  When not in use, the SMB rolls to a size convenient to pocket carry or attachment to a D-ring.

Other types of floats for beach divers may include lift bags or marker floats, both of which have specialized uses.  Divers use lift bags to provide enough buoyancy to lift and move heavy objects underwater.  Such tasks are usually performed in conjunction with boat diving operations but occasionally beach divers remove nearshore obstacles and debris, like abandoned anchors, by dragging them ashore.  Marker floats are deployed when one wishes to designate the location of sites for future reference or to notify other divers.  These floats usually are attached to their own lines and hooks or weighted anchors.

KNIVES AND CUTTING DEVICES

What rig would look complete without a dive knife?  Actually, this item considered to be a part of diver mystique by the general public has fallen out of favor in some parts of the diving community.  A few self-appointed critics deride divers who sport a knife on their belt, BCD, or leg.  Disdain and disregard for the dive knife is ill-informed and harmful.  Misguided environmentalists, fearful that careless divers will cause damage to marine life and themselves, preach against knives as unnecessary, brutish, and vain.  Few things could be further from the truth.

A dive knife is the tool that may someday save the diver’s life.  Not that the diver would ever use it in hand combat with a shark or giant octopus, as Hollywood movies would have us believe.  More likely, the diver will remove entanglement threats or snagged lines impeding progress or safety.  Often, the knife is used as a pry tool, a signaling device, and lever.  Stuck valves and stubborn clips have been opened by knives.  Blades with etched scales are used to measure size or provide reference in research photographs.  Any diver who criticizes one carrying a knife or cutting device has just not been diving long enough to know its true value.

For your purposes as a beach diver, you need to focus on two practical factors: function and retention.  You will need a knife that will do whatever job that comes to hand.  (Some divers favor surgical shears as suitable knife substitutes.  While they often serve the purpose in cutting fishing line or web belts, they may not work for many other tasks knives serve.  Still, it is a personal choice.)  Knife features include blade material, blade length, tip style, edge type, handle style, and sheath options.  A 3” blade is convenient on a BCD and a larger blade offers more leverage for prying or hacking.  Stainless steel resists rust and is easy to sharpen but must be carefully cleaned and dried after use, while a titanium blade is practically carefree.  Pointed tips will dispatch speared fish easily and chisel tips can serve more tool-like functions.  Clean edges cut rope and serrated edges cut slice through webbing.

Retention becomes an issue because, as mentioned earlier, beach divers often enter and depart through surf.  The sheath must have a suitable means of securing the knife or you will one day emerge from a dive and wonder what happened to your knife.  All knife retention systems work in the shop but most will fail within a few dives.  Seek a sheath that has double retention, such as an internal clip and an external rubber retention ring.  If the knife you like only has one retention method, you can add the external security with a small length of surgical tubing tied around the handle.

Frankly, most experienced beach divers carry two knives.  Sometimes, one carries a knife on the BCD or belt and one affixed to arm or leg.  Others may carry a simple folding or lock-blade knife in a pocket.  The theory is two knives are better than one, especially if the likelihood is high of losing that essential tool.

LIGHTS

If you have been diving any length of time, you have probably already acquired a dive light.  If not and you are considering beach diving, you need to start shopping for a light.  Of course dive lights are an absolute necessity for night dives, which are a blast from the beach, but there are many other times you may wish you had a light.  Many interesting dive sites includes reefs, rocks, and ledges, which sometimes shadow and shelter some of what you went diving to see or catch.  Lights penetrate those shadows and add to your diving pleasure.  Lights also capture the attention of dive buddies or provide more essential signals on the surface or to shore-based personnel.  Sometimes, a dive might go long and bring one ashore after the sun has set.  At such times, a dive light is more than just handy.

Lights for beach diving should be easy to carry and bright.  Most divers like a flashlight-style light, a 6” torch that attaches easily to one’s BCD strap or that fits in one’s BCD pocket.  Few favor pistol-grip style lamps for incidental use because they tend to be bulky and dangle inconveniently unless carried.  A clip affixes the light to a D-ring and a tether ensures its security even when in use.  Some like to secure the light further with a piece of surgical tubing around the BCD riser.

In terms of brightness, anything at least 120 lumens is sufficient but anything less is not enough except under the dimmest conditions.  Brighter is better yet do not trade off convenience for lumens, when possible.  Power considerations include replaceable batteries, rechargeable batteries, and sealed rechargeable units.  If you will use your lamp often or if you have the discipline to recharge your light before every dive, opt for rechargeable batteries or sealed units.  If your standard carry light will only be used for occasional shadows or signaling, alkaline batteries will be good enough.

One can spend too much on dive lights, if not careful.  If you will be using the light for night diving or for photographic purposes, a more sophisticated and powerful light makes sense but make sure you really need all the features your money will buy you.  There is no need to spend several hundred dollars for a cannister light designed for cave diving and extended wreck penetrations when a $50 torch is more appropriate.

SPECIALTY GEAR

After you have been beach diving for a while, eventually you will develop other reasons for wading through the surf.  You might want to bring back some lobsters and fish or you may just want to capture them in photographs and video.  You might also develop an interest in some specialized equipment some divers use to access remote sites.  Let’s consider a few items for these purposes.

CAMERAS

One of diving’s greatest joys is to share with others the incredible sights you see.  Underwater photography has come a long way since early divers caulked their cameras into waterproof boxes just before descending.  Divers now have a wide range of still and motion options from which to choose, and most choices are affordable and durable enough to make them practical for the rigors of beach diving.

The most popular choice among beach divers today are the sports-action cameras like the GoPro.  For less money than what a lens once cost, a sports-action camera can take still shots and video.  Most models have a battery life that is longer than an average beach dive, and with an adequate storage card, one can record the entire adventure.  Editing software allows one to feature more highlights than bloopers, sometimes producing professional quality images.

For beach diving purposes, one wants a compact, inexpensive camera that tethers easily to the BCD, and can withstand the buffeting of surf entries and exits.  Compact to reduce drag and weight; inexpensive to reduce the heartache of potential damage or loss.  Avoid large rigs with strobe extensions and complex housings.

HUNTING

Who can complain about a sport that also produces dinner?  Many divers choose beach entries for access to prime underwater hunting sites.  Of course, one must be aware of all local ordinances governing both hunting and possession of spears/spearguns, particularly on public beaches.  Also, some areas regulate and/or prohibit hunting around land-based structures, such as piers, moorings, jetties, and seawalls.  Check with law enforcement authorities for shore-based entry locations and with state game organizations for underwater harvesting, especially in regard to species, sizes, bag limits, and seasons.

For spearfishing, one may choose a wide range of weapons from basic slings to sophisticated spearguns.  Beach diving spearfishers opt for more compact versions, when practical, because they are easier to manage on entries and exits.  When not actually hunting, spears and guns should be unloaded and tethered for safety and security.

For lobster hunting, the less gear one needs, the easier it will be to carry and deploy.  A single loop or snare can replace a bulky net and tickle stick, but it often requires a bit more practice for successful hunts.  Catch bags and lobster hotels are great for carrying the catch home.  Choose styles that have more mesh than canvas, to reduce drag.

When taking any type of game, keep in mind that you will not simply ascend and toss the catch into a boat.  Beach divers must carry their catch the remainder of the dive and out through the surf.  The presence of wounded or bleeding fish on a stringer or in a bag may attract predators, so factor that into your dive plan.  Some divers attach their stringer to the dive flag float, thus keeping the game apart from the diver for the majority of the dive.

Underwater hunting requires specialized skills, so seek training whenever it is available.  When scouting a new area for game, it may be helpful to consult local dive shops or dive groups.  It is likely they may provide essential information or even guiding services to make you more successful.

DIVER PROPULSION VEHICLES (DPV)

One of the most attractive options for beach divers is the diver propulsion vehicle (DPV) or underwater scooter.  The idea of pressing a button for an easy trip to the reef is almost too good to pass up.  Every diver might make this choice if it were not for two things: cost and weight.  As with all other gear, one must assess the advantage over the disadvantage when choosing equipment.

Although the price of diver propulsion vehicles has declined in recent years, as advances in technology create more efficient batteries and lighter scooters, the most reliable units are still somewhat pricey.  A DPV capable of towing a diver and rig through surf surge and a reef tour lasting 60 minutes or more, is in the range or $2,000 to $5,000, as of this writing.  In addition to the size of the initial outlay, those prices represent a big sacrifice for something that may have to be abandoned in an emergency, such as a rough surf exit.

The second consideration is weight.  No matter how expensive or reliable the DPV, it is an electro-mechanical device in an aquatic environment.  Failure is not a matter of if, as much as when.  DPV owners know that batteries lose their charge, a minor leak can flood the battery or electronic compartment, and propellors can be entangled in fishing line, seaweed, or even tether line.  Thus, your underwater taxi becomes a bulky burden that must be carried back to shore and through the surf.

Those factors don’t disqualify DPV’s from consideration, but the savvy beach diver will know not to use a DPV on distances or depths which exceed one’s ability to return to shore safely.  Of course, most beach divers are not going to dive alone, so a buddy with a second DPV helps manage the risk, should one’s DPV fail.

HOOKAH RIGS

Besides fear of water itself, the second most popular reason people choose not to scuba dive is the thought of carrying a 40 lb. air cylinder on their back.  That burden is eliminated with the use of a hookah rig.  Hookahs supply the air from a floating platform, allowing the diver to swim freely, attached to the hookah by a lengthy, flexible air hose.  The platform floats freely, following the diver, towed by the air hose.

Hookahs can be either a mechanical device that pumps air into the hose or an air cylinder attached to a floating platform.  Mechanical hookahs are powered by gasoline engines or electric, battery-powered motors installed on large, inflatable rings.  While the air cylinder/extra-long air hose configuration is relatively inexpensive, mechanical hookahs may cost as much as $5,000 or more.

Divers who wish to spend a long time at depth on a calm day may find a hookah rig helpful.  Such divers may be involved in macro-photography, underwater recovery and repairs, or scientific research.  They welcome the additional time and freedom provided by a hookah.

Beach diving with a hookah requires planning, assistance, and good weather.  Windy days and choppy waters present significant difficulty for hookah operations.  Also, carrying 50-100 lbs. of equipment through the surf can be tricky, if not hazardous.  Considering that gas engines and electric motors do not work well once submerged, one can imagine taking particular care transporting a $5,000 hookah through a surf line.

Shore Support Equipment

TARPS

Unless you plan to gear up and return to a vehicle parked near the dive site, you might find a tarp spread out on shore a safe place to stage your gear.  The most desirable tarp material would be waterproof or water-resistant, durable to withstand impact from heavy equipment and from foot traffic, and easily transportable.  Canvas drop cloths used by painters are great choices, and will likely last many years of heavy use.  The ubiquitous blue plastic tarps often used to cover truckloads are a tempting choice, but they often develop tears after only a few uses.

Always shake out tarps before folding and again before storing between dives.  Remove any dirt, sand, and debris.  Allow wet tarps to dry thoroughly before storing or risk the odor and mildew that will inevitably develop.

Heavy canvas tarps may serve many other uses, including coverage for people and equipment during unexpected inclement weather, thermal protection for a chilled diver, or as a stretcher to transport the injured.

RINSE BOTTLES

Any shore you dive from is likely to have sand or dirt, even if rocks or concrete predominate.  Rinse bottles can be as large as one can carry and lift, or they may be quart-sized squeeze bottles.  Gallon milk jugs are a great choice, especially since that repurposes a single-use plastic.  Avoid using any jug once used to store caustic or poisonous substances, such as detergent or cleaning chemicals, since trace amounts may linger and taint water that may be ingested.

Portable shower kits, such as those sold in camping stores, are great for a complete, freshwater rinse before donning street clothes.  These kits have the added advantage of solar heating when left in sunlight, thus providing a warm shower after the dive.

Caution: Any rinse water that is non-potable should be labeled as such.  A thirsty diver is likely to grab whatever looks wet and clear to rehydrate after breathing dry air for an hour.

FIRST AID KITS AND SUPPLEMENTAL WATER

First aid seems a common-sense item to everyone, but few people carry such kits, and even fewer know how to use them.  The most likely reasons a first aid kit may be necessary include the following: small and large cuts and abrasions, venomous animal stings (jellyfish, lionfish, etc.), punctures (sharp objects in sand, sea urchins, etc.), sunburn, sprained ankle, and heat exhaustion.  Most drugstores, sporting goods stores, and camping suppliers carry kits suitable for the most basic uses.

More complete first aid kits are never a bad idea, especially if carried in a vehicle parked near the dive entry site.  Be familiar with the contents of the kit; seek first aid training, if possible.

Some divers carry an emergency oxygen kit, such as those sold by DAN.org.  Any diving event has the potential to create a need for oxygen for diver treatment, however the depths encountered on most beach dives are unlikely to contribute to decompression illness.  Still, if one has the opportunity to carry such a kit, it can be helpful with two caveats.  First, administration of 100% oxygen should only be attempted by those trained to do so.  Such training is available through scuba certification agencies, DAN.org, the Red Cross, and other medical organizations. 

Secondly, transportation of 100% oxygen involves hazards about which one should be knowledgeable.  Consult the Department of Transportation standards regarding vehicular transport and storage of oxygen or check with local fire-rescue services for guidance.  All medical oxygen cylinders are marked as such and do not have any scuba cylinders filled with oxygen mixtures in excess of 40% unless certified to do so.

SAVE-A-DIVE BOX

Few things can be as essential to a diver as the box of goodies packed with the items that can save a dive if they are present when needed.  Consider what would happen if, as you are gearing up, any of the following occurs: an o-ring bursts, a fin or mask strap breaks, an air supply hose comes loose, or the dive computer battery dies.  The dive is aborted, right?  The Save-A-Dive box contains those small but vital items that can prevent that kind of inconvenience. 

The list of essentials may include o-rings, computer batteries, basic tools like screwdrivers and wrenches, spare mask and fin straps, and such according to your gear configuration.  A set of dive tables might be added to that list.

Also in that box are items that might make the dive more enjoyable, such as spare defog, camera and flashlight batteries, prescription glasses or readers, and a few first aid items like bandages, aspirin, sunscreen, and lip balm.

EQUIPMENT NEVER TO CARRY ON A BEACH DIVE

The old adage, “Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it,” works most of the time, but not in beach diving.  Some divers go way beyond the equipment necessary for a safe, effective dive by including gear that is superfluous and cumbersome.  Be advised: take only what you need, remembering that every item you carry costs energy and oxygen.

In other words, if a piece of equipment adds unnecessary weight, drag, or complexity, leave it on shore.

Consider three phases of your beach dive that are affected by the gear you carry.  Wading into the surf is challenging enough when wearing 65 lbs. of BCD, air cylinder, regulator rig, and lead weight.  Add to that a large camera rig, a DPV, speargun or lobster gear, and the balancing act becomes more difficult and tiring.  Swimming with all that gear requires additional effort to overcome drag created by additional inflation of the BCD and the drag of the gear itself.  Finally, already exhausted by a difficult entry, surface swim, and underwater journey, one must emerge to brave the breakers onto the beach.

Another consideration is additional risk caused by having to focus on the presence and manipulation of additional gear.  Divers may become distracted managing complicated or expensive gear, which is understandable if the equipment contributes to dive safety or the mission, but inexcusable if the gear is only along for the ride.

If a piece of equipment is not a part of the basic kit, and especially if it is bulky or heavy, think twice before lugging it across the sand for a long trip underwater.